Fashion, Photography: Bailey's 70s
How to Master Photo Shoots with Models
The '40s Glamour Portrait
DUFFY: The Man Who Shot the Sixties
I have a lot of new models writing to Glamour Photography magazine each month, asking for advice. And it always worries me that I may end up sounding like their dad. So I've searched the Internet to see what sort of advice was out there. I found a huge amount of sites that offered advice followed by of course, we will take your pictures for you and we are safe. OK maybe they are, but who are they? Eventually I found one of the models that used to advertise and had a profile on our old website Glamour-Photography.co.uk. She had written an excellent page of advice. With her permission you will find it reproduced below. As photographers we endorse everything she says and say please read the "Things to remember before a shoot" section carefully! :-) We say "Oh Yes". One last thing I will add. If you are a new model and have never done a real studio shoot of any sort, please don't expect photographers to pay you top hourly money. Try TFP to get a book together and practice, or expect the rate to be below the standard. We have to work much harder and are far less likely to get great results with a novice model. I am certainly not saying get paid peanuts to pose and sign a release, but you will not get top money either. A photographer paying top money expects the model to change quickly, put on the slap and be under the lights ready to go in double quick time. Then he expects her to move through poses without being prompted all the time. Her eyes will always be open when the shutter fires and she will not look awkward. That comes with practice and I have to say from my experience with models, a fair degree of talent. So now read what Rachel has to say and hear it straight form a glamour model.
After scouring the internet for model sites to link to. I noticed that not many of them have an advice page. So after some careful thinking, I decided to put one together with the help of other models and photographers. There are so many young models out there who are open to danger when looking for work on message boards etc. Maybe a lot of older models as well who are new to the Internet. Hopefully, this site will help everyone.
This advice page contains lots of dos and don'ts and also gives you a chance to ask questions. If there's anything that I've missed out please contact me and I will be sure to add your point. The main thing for all models to do when approached by a photographer/studio/agent is to ask for at least 2 references. If they've got nothing to hide then there will not be a problem!
Another thing NOT to do is go off on a location shoot somewhere. Try and find a studio near to your home that you can work from, there will always be someone there with you that way. You can always ask to take a 'chaperone' with you as well, most photographers are OK with this as long as it's not a jealous boyfriend or an overprotective mum! Lol
Always make sure that you ask the photographer first though... I wouldn't recommend just turning up with your chaperone unannounced. You have to remember that this is the internet... anyone can start up a modelling website whether they have experience or not. Don't be sucked into any scams. ALWAYS CHECK THEM OUT! When I started modelling I was always too embarrassed to ask for references..please don't be, You'll come across a lot more professional to genuine photographers if you do…!
When arranging a shoot, please have a list of your rates at hand, and let the photographer know what you are charging per hour. Stick to your rates when you've decided what they are...if you don't know what to charge, it's always best to have a look at other model sites and see what they are charging. You'll notice that most of them are very similar.
Here's a rough guide.
£30 per hour for Fashion
£30-£40 per hour for Lingerie
£30-£50 per hour for Topless
£40-£60 per hour for Nude
£60-£70 per hour for adult top shelf "open leg"
Most studios will only pay you £50 p/h for doing nude work.
Also, state whether you want your travel expenses covered. It's a good idea not to price yourself too high. Some professional photographers will be put off by this and therefore will not approach you. You can always state whether you're open to negotiation. Also, please state your style of modelling (fashion, topless, nude, men's magazine, stills, video or both?) and what level of work you are willing to go up to - and which you will never do.
Fashion - Model is fully clothed, with no nudity.
Swim wear - Model is to wear swimwear, a bikini or a swimsuit. Again no nudity, the model's breasts are covered.
Lingerie - Model is to wear underwear which may include things like tights, stockings, thongs, knickers, and suspenders. See-through items are not included at this level unless discussed beforehand.
Glamour - This has lots of different meanings - sheer or seethe clothing, maybe FHM (lad magazine) style, usually clothed but sexy and provocative.
Topless - Breasts are showing, such as what you see on page 3.
Semi-nude - This could count as topless, half of you is nude, such as breasts then the bottom half would be covered. Or it could mean that you are totally nude but lying in a certain way that makes you only partially nude.
Art-nude/figure/classic - Model is nude, but not in an explicit way. Pubic hair may be showing, but legs are not open, this is a very tasteful level of work and is done mainly in black and white rather than colour.
Magazine style/full nude - This style of modelling is what you will see if you look at top-shelf magazines, the model will have her legs open and be nude, and there are all sorts of levels such as UK magazines, US magazines, continental etc. The UK is the softest level explained above, then the US is where the model holds herself open, and continental is where insertion is used (such as toys or fingers). Then there are 2 girls (or girl/girl) and a boy/girl, this is where you pose for stills or video with a male or female partner at either a hard or soft level.
There are loads of different levels of glamour: Click here to get a breakdown.
If anything here is not clear, or you don't understand, please let me know at..... Email: info@Glamour-Photographymagazine.com.
PFT or TFP means 'prints for time' and 'time for prints' (both are the same thing). This is where you work for the photographer in exchange for prints, or a CD of your images. You DO NOT get paid for this type of shoot. It's an ideal opportunity for you to get good images for your book (portfolio), and in this case, no model release should be signed. The pictures should only be available to the model and the photographer for their promotion. No payment either way.
Model Release Form - If you sign this, then that means that you have signed the rights over to the photographer (copyright) and he/she can therefore go on to do whatever they wish with the pictures without your say-so (unless stated otherwise in the release form). If you are going to sign a form, please make sure you read through it properly and understand it before signing. You can charge a price for signing a release form. (Again, look around on other model sites). Click here to visit our model release page.
If you're under 16 you can only do fashion modelling (fully clothed). You will need a chaperone.
If you're over 18 you can do topless, (Glamour-Photography would advise taking a chaperone on your first couple of shoots.) Keep safety your main priority.
If you're 18 plus you can do any kind of level including 'magazine' hard and/or soft.
Things to remember before a shoot
Legs, Armpits, Bikini Line etc. - If you shave - at least 24hrs before, If you wax - 48hrs. This allows any red marks, and skin irritations to be alleviated.
NEVER use fake tanning creams. You will appear on film as the "Orange Tango woman!
Wear loose-fitting clothes to travel. T-shirts and loose baggy trousers are best. Avoid anything with elasticized waistbands, cuffs, collars tight bra straps etc. If your
Travel circumstances allow, try to travel without underwear. Once you have ugly red marks on your skin from tight clothes, they cannot be hidden and can take around three hours to disappear.
Also remove any tight watch straps/jewellery etc. which mark your skin.
Please bring high heels in both light and dark colours. Even when they are not in the shot, they force you to stand very upright, which improves your posture and figure.
Try to bring a variety of underwear, preferably matching sets, in both light and dark colours.
- Never give out your address or phone number.
- Always ask for the photographer's contact number and email address.
- Always phone the photographer, dialling 141 first, to withhold your number.
- Always Check with the studio that the photographer has booked the agreed time and date under his name.
- Never agree to work from your own home.
- Ask to see some examples of the photographer's work. Do these compare with his stated level of experience?
- Tell somebody where you are going! What time you are expecting to be home, who you are meeting, contact phone number at the studio etc.
- Take a mobile phone if you can.
- Take a chaperone until you feel comfortable enough to attend shoots on your own. But make sure you inform the photographer beforehand.
There are a lot of scams out there, people claiming to be someone they're not. On the Internet they are pretty much unavoidable, just remember to ask them questions and check them out. If someone approaches you, and you're not sure who they are… you can email me email: info@Glamour-Photographymagazine.com and if I've not heard of them I will know someone who has and whether they are a good or bad agency! If any agency asks you to part with any money, I seriously wouldn't advise it… It's one of the most well-known scams in the book! If an agency feels that you have potential… either as a fashion or a glamour model, they will make their money by getting you plenty of work. If you hand out a load of cash to them, you will never hear or see them again.
I hope this hasn't been too boring for you. You have hopefully learnt a few things that you may not have known before. I'd appreciate feedback from everyone who reads this… and again if you feel I've missed something let me know, and it will be added!!
All the best and be safe!
Thank you to everyone who helped me put my advice page together.
Code of conduct
The Rules & Behaviour.
Photographer's code of conduct
1) A photographer will treat any model with the utmost respect at all times.
2) Always allow a chaperone to all shoots; it is acceptable that you may require them to sit outside the room on some occasions.
3) If the model is not accompanied then they will then be given provision to either have the same one phone them every half hour or ring their nominated person to assure of their safety.
4) Photographers will always use their real names and if applicable their company name. They will always give a true address when asked for identification and will supply models with a landline phone number when asked. They will also provide full details of the shoot location before the day of the shoot.
5) Where payment is due to the model, it will be paid promptly and in full, preferably on the day of the shoot. If paying via an agency, this will also be made promptly.
6) Photographers will abide by UK law at all times concerning the signing of any contract by a model, the required age limitation that may be placed on a model, the presence or the consent of a parent or guardian for any person under the age of 18.
7) Photographers will make any health and safety provisions for the model that may be required of them. They will make themselves fully aware of the Health and Safety Act 1974, and fully take any responsibility that is placed on them as the “employer”, even though this is a contractual form.
8) Photographers should respect any agreement made with the model before the shoot. This may range from the type of modelling agreed to the eventual usage of the shots, and any copyright agreement this would raise.
9) Where a session is to last over 2 hours, then provision should be made for at least a 15-minute break for the model.
10) The photographer should ensure that there are adequate changing facilities for the model and that they are given privacy to change.
11) Photographers should recognise and be fully aware that no model is booked to supply sexual services to them, nor should any photographer ask for sexual services from a model. Even if the level & and content of the photoshoot are of an adult nature.
12) In a Prints-for-time agreement, the said number of prints should be agreed to before the start of the shoot, and the delivery date agreed. If this delivery can not be met, then a financial compensation clause should be agreed beforehand.